:: About Non-Precious Metals ::

316L Stainless Steel

316 Stainless is the workhorse alloy for the jewelry industry’s stainless needs. It is composed of approximately 60% Iron, 18% Chromium, and 14% Nickel with small percentages of Molybdenum, Manganese, and others. Despite the fact that 316L has 14% Nickel, it is still considered among the most biocompatible of the stainless series. It has been used in the medical industry for heart stents and spinal implants, among others. Nevertheless, it is important to be aware of the risk for nickel sensitivity when using this alloy for jewelry applications. This is particularly true for piercing designs where, ironically, it is the most popular.

Other benefits of 316L are its rust resistance and malleability—both key factors for jewelry use. Stones can be set with relative ease and rust is better inhibited by the specific combination of elements used in 316L versus other stainless steels.

Cobalt-Chrome is an alloy composed of approximately 67% Cobalt, 27% Chromium, and 6% Molybdenum. Renowned in the metals industry for its superb wear resistance, Cobalt-Chrome is the metal of choice for artificial joints including knees, hips, fingers, toes, and others. As such, the metal is highly biocompatible and ideal for use in certain jewelry applications as well.

While Cobalt-Chrome has an incredible luster after high polish, it does, however, have certain limitations in jewelry making. The high level of wear resistance also causes it to resist tools, making it very difficult to drill holes, set stones, or size in a traditional manner. The best use for this metal can therefore be found in pendants, earrings, cufflinks, necklaces, and bracelets, etc. that do not require sizing and designs that showcase the metal versus stones. Stones, when needed, can be riveted or glued in place. Another benefit of Cobalt-Chrome is its susceptibility to blackening. Blackening is done through a chemical process that creates a black oxide layer providing a wonderful contrast with platinum, palladium, and gold alloys. The blackening process itself is not widely published; however, many jewelers have devised their own methods for durable blackening of this metal.